5th New Varietal of 2010-- Auxerrois from Bel Lago!
Still on the hunt for new varietals for my palate and on the heals of the Tweet & Taste Michigan, I present Auxerrois from Bel Lago!
Bel Lago is located on the western shore of Lake Leelenau in northern Michigan. . .
This family owned winery first planted grapes on their farm in 1987, testing varietals on a 1 acre parcel overlooking Lake Leelenau. It has since grown to vineyards, facing both Lake Leelenau and Lake Michigan, of over 30 acres. Bel Lago grows white varietals of Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Auxerrois, Cayuga White, Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Gewurztraminer, Vignoles, Seyval Blanc, several Muscats, as well as red varietals of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Regent.
I recently had the pleasure of trying the 2008 Auxerrois (ox-sair-wah). In an effort to learn more about this varietal I contacted Bel Lago winemaker Charles Edson seeking more information. Let's just say, I received back quite the education and background on the Bel Lago Auxerrois. I think you will be just as impressed as I am with the very kind note I got back from Charles:
"I originally 'discovered' this variety on a trip to Alsace, and later enjoyed the variety in Luxembourg and Canada. While I was intrigued by the flavor profile, and particularly liked what the addition of Auxerrois did for Pinot Blanc, I was even more pleased to learn that it was an early ripening variety. As you probably know, Auxerrois is commonly blended with Pinot Blanc in Alsace. It tends to fatten the body of the wine, while the Pinot Blanc typically provides structure and elegance to the blend. Although you can find varietally labeled Alsacian produced Auxerrois, it is rarely mentioned on bottles of Alsacian Pinot Blanc, despite having been included in the blend.
While the exact origin of Auxerrois appears to be unknown, genetic analysis has shown the variety to be a sibling of Chardonnay, sharing the same parentage: Pinot Noir and Gouais Blanc. I first planted Auxerrois over 20 years ago. Viticulturally, Auxerrois is one of the earliest grapes to ripen in my vineyard. It is relatively easy to grow, though its sibling Chardonnay is easier to manage. Chardonnay is more cold hardy, in spite of its later ripening date. Both varieties are sensitive to common grape diseases, so some attention to detail is required to be successful for both. As with Chardonnay, good cluster exposure helps develop good flavors, although Auxerrois tends to be a bit more sensitive to sunburn, so again, attention to detail is required. Yields are good to excellent, although as with most cool climate varieties, maintaining somewhat lower yields helps insure a better flavor profile and wine chemistry. The acidity is generally excellent, with enough to provide some structure to the wine. As in Alsace, if Auxerrois is allowed to hang on the vine too long, the acidity drops out and the resulting wines tend to be a bit flabby.
Bel Lago Auxerrois is about 70% stainless steel fermented with 30% fermented in neutral (7-10 year old) French oak barrels. I'm looking for concentration and the roundness and finish provided by time in barrels for this wine, without the flavor contribution that would result from using newer barrels. Multiple yeasts are used to help broaden the flavor profile of the wine. The wine is aged sur-lie on very light lees for some months (duration depends on the vintage) to soften and further broaden the flavor profile, without significantly compromising the fruit. The wine ages well and tends to be best after at least a year in the bottle. The 2008 Auxerrois should be in its prime through 2012 and I expect the 2008 will drink well at least through 2015.
An interesting little bit of trivia: as far as I am aware, Bel Lago was the first in Michigan to plant Auxerrois, and certainly the first to make a varietal wine. Bel Lago was the first winery in the US to receive a label for Auxerrois. In 2005 I was invited to Oregon to pour Bel Lago 2002 Pinot Noir at the International Pinot Noir Celebration. While there, part of the IPNC group was taken to Adelsheim Vineyards for lunch and a tour. Given my interest in the variety, to my surprise and delight, they were pouring their first release of the Adelsheim Auxerrois. It turns out that they were the second winery in the US to receive a label for Auxerrois."
The 2008 Bel Lago Auxerrois has wonderful aromas of pear, citrus and golden apple. These delightful flavors follow through to the palate. This wine has a full smooth feel in your mouth. It's a sophisticated dry white that leaves a long and complex finish. It would be fabulous with grilled fish and salads and it's a steal at about $13.00 per bottle!
Charles Edson and the staff at Bel Lago have a lot to be proud of in their Auxerrois. Seek this one out, see for yourself, and expand your palate!
Bel Lago is located on the western shore of Lake Leelenau in northern Michigan. . .
This family owned winery first planted grapes on their farm in 1987, testing varietals on a 1 acre parcel overlooking Lake Leelenau. It has since grown to vineyards, facing both Lake Leelenau and Lake Michigan, of over 30 acres. Bel Lago grows white varietals of Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Auxerrois, Cayuga White, Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Gewurztraminer, Vignoles, Seyval Blanc, several Muscats, as well as red varietals of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Regent.
I recently had the pleasure of trying the 2008 Auxerrois (ox-sair-wah). In an effort to learn more about this varietal I contacted Bel Lago winemaker Charles Edson seeking more information. Let's just say, I received back quite the education and background on the Bel Lago Auxerrois. I think you will be just as impressed as I am with the very kind note I got back from Charles:
While the exact origin of Auxerrois appears to be unknown, genetic analysis has shown the variety to be a sibling of Chardonnay, sharing the same parentage: Pinot Noir and Gouais Blanc. I first planted Auxerrois over 20 years ago. Viticulturally, Auxerrois is one of the earliest grapes to ripen in my vineyard. It is relatively easy to grow, though its sibling Chardonnay is easier to manage. Chardonnay is more cold hardy, in spite of its later ripening date. Both varieties are sensitive to common grape diseases, so some attention to detail is required to be successful for both. As with Chardonnay, good cluster exposure helps develop good flavors, although Auxerrois tends to be a bit more sensitive to sunburn, so again, attention to detail is required. Yields are good to excellent, although as with most cool climate varieties, maintaining somewhat lower yields helps insure a better flavor profile and wine chemistry. The acidity is generally excellent, with enough to provide some structure to the wine. As in Alsace, if Auxerrois is allowed to hang on the vine too long, the acidity drops out and the resulting wines tend to be a bit flabby.
Bel Lago Auxerrois is about 70% stainless steel fermented with 30% fermented in neutral (7-10 year old) French oak barrels. I'm looking for concentration and the roundness and finish provided by time in barrels for this wine, without the flavor contribution that would result from using newer barrels. Multiple yeasts are used to help broaden the flavor profile of the wine. The wine is aged sur-lie on very light lees for some months (duration depends on the vintage) to soften and further broaden the flavor profile, without significantly compromising the fruit. The wine ages well and tends to be best after at least a year in the bottle. The 2008 Auxerrois should be in its prime through 2012 and I expect the 2008 will drink well at least through 2015.
The 2008 Bel Lago Auxerrois has wonderful aromas of pear, citrus and golden apple. These delightful flavors follow through to the palate. This wine has a full smooth feel in your mouth. It's a sophisticated dry white that leaves a long and complex finish. It would be fabulous with grilled fish and salads and it's a steal at about $13.00 per bottle!
Charles Edson and the staff at Bel Lago have a lot to be proud of in their Auxerrois. Seek this one out, see for yourself, and expand your palate!
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